JULIAN MCDONALD: “THEY WON’T STOP ME TO USE LEATHER”
He is born on 19th of March 1972 in Merthyr Tydfil,Wales. He graduatesa one-year coursein The Collegeof art in Cardiff, and after that he getsan academic degreeof fashion textilein Brayton. He graduates in 1996 a magistracy of knitting-workand fashion inthe Royal College of fine arts. The same yearhe is invited to make knittingforKarl Lagerfeldand its collections for “Chanel”. In 1997 he creates his ownbrand. From 2000 to 2004 he is chief designerof fashion house “Givenchy”. He launches his brandfor underwear “Star” in 2006. In the last yearshe makes alsochildren collections, bags for notebooks, crystals and clothes for dolls “Barbie”. He is chosen forthe best designerof Great Britain (2001). In 2004 he is honored withan academic degreefrom the University in Wales. He is a laureateof the reader’s award of “Western Mail” (Wales) for the best dressed man. He is bearer of the Order of the British Empire.
Julian McDonald is among the leading British designers today, he is representative of the new generation of fashion creators, who conquers the interest and the attention with originality and freshness, mastery and unadulterated chic. To give more exact meaning of the special features of this phenomenal stylist, we have to respond of some questions. What are the role and the place of the knitting in his design and what are the earliest manifestations of his talent? Is there exists a place for comparison between his style and the fashion of Versace, Dolce and Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli? Why is he so addicted to the animal leather as a basic material in his luxury collections? How he reacts to the frequent protests of the defenders of the rights of the animals? For the appearance of which celebrities from the cinema, the pop music and as a whole – from the show business takes care Julian McDonald?...
EARLY OUTBURSTS OF THE TALENT
The biographers find the fact that in Merthyr Tydfil(Wales) were born two big British designers – Lora Ashley and Julian McDonald as symptomatic. The family background is beneficial for the interest of the young man to the fashion, to the design and to the textile. Still more, his mother on her youth was showing like a photo model and like a model of swimming suits, and his father who earns his money from his work in the factory in Hover, also isn’t indifferent to the making of clothes and encourages his son in this direction. It is very interesting that all people at home love to knit, including the head of the family. Julian demonstrates notable skills in the area of the knitted clothes and with ease he makes waistcoats for his closely related people. Later these skills will help him to attract the attention of the world fashion houses and especially of the empire “Chanel”. One of the first design experiences of the young McDonald is related to the reparatory of his school uniform. He is not satisfied of its conventional appearance and remakes it, giving it bigger aesthetics and originality.
Until he is a schoolboy he has different artistic enthusiasms and definitely he develops under the sign of the art. Especially strongly attracts him the theatre and the dance and for some time he even realizes him self as a dancer – even so like a beginner. The professional education at design and fashion textile, consecutively in Cardiff and in Brayton, clarifies finally the essence of this talent – a realization in the area of the fashion and attractive, chic and luxury design. As a student in the Royal College of fine arts in London, he shows up with conceptuality and perfect attitude to the details of the clothes and of the complements. It is no chance that just Julian McDonald wins the competition in knitwear, declared by the chief designer of “Chanel” – Karl Lagerfeld, thanks to what the first more serious manifestation of the young designer from Wales is in the celebrity French fashion house. He is booked to create a line of knitting for “Chanel” and he even appears on the stage at the end of the fashion-show together with the great Karl Lagerfeld. McDonald amasses experience also in his cooperation with other big names in the fashion like Koji Tatsuno and Alexander McQueen, who also order him the making of the knitwear for their collections.
PHILOSOPHY AND AESTHETICAL CONCEPTION
It could be hard to find an interview, where the designer reveals his whole conception for the fashion and for the fashion design. What is his philosophy and creative adjustment could be judged by indirection to his collections, to single fragments from announcements at the media, as from well considered or spontaneously pronounced comments about one or another event in the world of the beauty and style. Still in the first years of his creative manifestations appears his wish to integrate the classic beauty and the traditional comprehension for elegance with the erotic and the rebelliousness of the unruly young generation. And if the sensation for harmony and tender chic dominates in the stuck to the body feminine knitted dresses in one of his first collections – spring-summer 1994, later the design attention is directed to the short and erotic dresses and skirts, to the bottomless necklines and as a whole to the models, detaching hot sex-appeal and seducing freedom (collection autumn-winter 2000-2001).
The master manual work, with which McDonald gives perfection to his arts, is a leading factor of his huge success. His abilities to make miracles with the knitting-needles, showed in his childhood, as the patience and the skillfulness, with which he works in advance the material are the open sesame of his precipitous development. For example in his collection autumn-winter 1999-2000 the connoisseurs are fascinated by the refined hand made from him lace with lame in its texture. Thanks to the original material still more reinforces the romance, the femininity and the nobleness of this fashion design. In the base of the aesthetical conception of Julian McDonald underlies his comprehension about the difference, perceived like bigger and more culture bravery. During the years he consecutively develops his suggestion for intelligent sex-appeal, sometimes expressed with playful winking to the almost insolent nakedness. This suggestion most often is achieved with the help of the asymmetric composition of the models, the transparent materials and the deep slashes, uncovering the thighs or uncovering the deeply cut bare backs. Convincing and expressive is his background, for example, in the collection spring-summer 2001, where are reduced to a common denominator the style, the modernity and the erotic.
The period “Givenchy” in the life and in the creative development of McDonald is debatable. When in 2000 he gets the tempting proposal from the owner Bernard Arnaud to take the lead of the famous fashion house (besides taking the place of two his compatriots – the British fashion geniuses Alexander McQueen, and before him John Galliano), he maybe didn’t realize the difficulties and the peripety that will come. In short: during all of the four years as a chief designer of “Givenchy” he shows him self in contradictory way, he ruptures between his own creative ego, from one side, and the inevitable requirements to respect some French standards for the fashion central, from the other. In his collections for the French fashion house McDonald prefers the bigger strictness, the more official black color and as a whole he is more reserved and measured. There he doesn’t succeed to achieve the triumphal success of his predecessors McQueen and Galliano, maybe because he tried more to imitate the French comprehension for elegance, while the both before him achieved to impose the style “very British” and behaved like real bad guys. In fact maybe not just the observance of the standing standards, but maybe the introduction of original and new criteria in “Givenchy” is found to be difficult and unachievable task for him. A proof for this is the laconic commentaries of the experts on the occasion of his say in Paris (it is a prominent fact that every weekend McDonald goes to London, to work for his own brand). Still it can’t be denied particular contributions of the designer to “Givenchy”, as the conversely influence – the entering of elements, characteristic for the refined French chic in the individual style of the British creator.
The projects of the designer for new uniforms of the air-hostesses from air-company “British Airways” can be qualified as successful. In contrast to the general tendency to bigger strictness and corporative spirit, Julian McDonald surprises many people as offering clothes for the flying ladies, saturated with more femininity and even erotic. In the man line dominates the masculinity or still “the super heroism”. On the occasion of the reproaches for inappropriate erotic in the uniform clothes, he reacts in his own style:”My wish is to give charm to the traveling in the air. The girls will look very sexy, and the men like strong heroes. All the airlines will envy to them.”
In his efforts for consolidation of his own brand Julian McDonald comprehend him self quite seriously as a British analogue of such a splendid and rich in their creative works Italian masters of the fashion like the departed Gianni Versace and her sister - Donatella, Dolce and Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli. He doesn’t hide his wish to be like them and to transfer his experience to a British land. One of the means to the achievement of this ambitious objective is the using of very expensive leathers in his luxury collections. A priority in this respect and favorite for the designer are the leathers from chinchilla, mink and fox. These partialities however are a reason Julian McDonald to be in the center of the public scandals and of the unmerciful accusations from the part of the adherents of the movement for ethic attitude to the animals.
LUXURY, LEATHER, SCANDALS
To be understood the admiration of the designer to the using of the unusually expensive leathers in his works, it is necessary to penetrate in his comprehension for the industry of the luxury in the contemporary world and the market, and economic priorities in his own business. What he has to do when his clients want to wear coats from mink and chinchilla, or leather ornaments and complements, made from fox or sabis? Among his clientele are showing up one of the most well-to-do women in the world and also a big part of the Russian parvenus. According to admissions of Julian McDonald him self, this type of clients includes a considerable part of the users of the fashion articles, bearing his name. Years on end he and his leather collections is an object of violent criticisms from the side of the members of PETA (an organization, including adherents of the cause for ethic attitude to the animals). They jump at the stage during the fashion-show and swing posters and slogans with notices, accusing the using of animal leathers for the aims of the fashion or they cover with flour the designer and his muses. In 2006 “the flour” attack was realized toward Paris Hilton, a principle personage in the fashion-show of McDonald, who had to present a dress with diamonds at rate of 2 million pounds. Then both welcomed with a sense of humor this “critique” and in the most imperturbably way beat the white dust out of their clothes before they continue to give interviews. Without paying attention at the attacks, the designer from year to year develops his leather business, achieving the making of whole collections from the very expensive material.
Cold-bloodedly and soberly Julian McDonald welcomes all these scandals, behaving like other his colleagues, accused in the same sin – Roberto Cavalli, Kristian Lacroix, Valentino etc. Often he opposes arguments to the unmerciful critiques the fact that he works with luxury leathers from Russia and the Scandinavian countries – however approved by the international federations of the leather industry. He speaks about the defenders of the animals with mixed emotions of pity and ridicule. Does he have grounds for all of this? Can we excuse him for everything? Of course, that no or at least – quite not. It is correct to stare at his arguments against the attacks of PETA:”Whatever they will make, I won’t stop to use leather. If I stop to work with leather at the producing of my collections, it will be necessary to close my business. About 60 per cent of my business is meant to the Russian market, where my leather articles are sold very well. The Russian women prefer the leather coats and they wouldn’t wear anything else, because there the weather is so cold, and they want to be fashion”.
“Gucci”, “Fendi” and Valentino are showed from McDonald him self as fashion houses and designers, who achieved to create successful brands, just because they work with luxury leathers. The expensive clothes and the high quality fashion are unthinkable without the emblematic leather. Following this logic, Julian McDonald identifies him self and his works with the ultra expensive fashion design, with the fashion articles, those prices are measured in five and six figure numbers. Still it’s not pleasant, when you are accused in breach of ethic and social norms, but every cloud has a silver lining. The loud scandals and the public protest of PETA reinforce in an own way the interest of the designer and assure him a free advertisement – although doubtful – PR success.
STARS AND CELEBRITIES
He is rounded by world famous stars and celebrities: top models, pop icons and fashion ladies. Among them are showed brightly Naomi Campbell and Elizabeth Jagger, Gerry Halliwell and Mel B, Jodie Kidd and Victoria Beckham, Madonna and Jennifer Lopez, Kylie Minogue and Diana Ross, Liz Hurley and Paris Hilton. He can’t without them, but they also can’t without him. A part from the famous and beautiful women are in his company, because they realize teamwork; others – because their roads are crossed during parties and fashion events, celebrations and competitions. But all of them wear with pleasure his clothes and don’t hide their partialities to his style – a mixture of bright luxury and fashion extravagance, British daring and French refinement. For his sincere attitude to the icons from the big screen it can be judged from the following fact. Independently of the circumstance, that during four years he is chief designer of “Givenchy” (it is well known that the muse of count Givenchy was Audrey Hepburn), McDonald doesn’t transform in an adherent of Hepburn and he doesn’t set her on a pedestal. If it exist a Hollywood star before whom he bows down without reservation – that is Marilyn Monroe. She is his permanent favorite. Multiple and various are his reports for the celebrities, with which he works, who are constantly in his surroundings. He values the majesty and the beauty of Elizabeth Hurley, he admires her skill to enjoy and to amuse the people around her, calling her “an amazing woman”.
Julian McDonald is a favorite to the women from the show business and from the popular arts, because he can make them seducing and attractive, to give them complementary sexual detachment and together with this – to shows up them from their close friends. The last one: with the help of his refined provocative design, moving at the edge between the aesthetical and the kitsch, the erotic and the vulgar, but always giving the due to the beauty and the refinement.
* * *
The fashion design of Julian McDonald shows how from the bosom of the unruly British fashion can be born a creator of refined, elegant and fresh clothes. His road up to here (and he is so young!) shows the importance of the manual work for the postmodern design, and also the huge role of the individual and free thinking. The erotic provocativeness, the seducing and daring models, as the fine handwriting, and the pedantic attitude to every detail reveals one of the most attractive sides in the style of Julian McDonald.
Notes: In this article are used the following sources:
Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005; Julien Macdonald. In: Fashion Designers. History of Fashion & Costume. Internet; Julien Macdonald. In: Hello! Internet; Julien Macdonald: Defender of the fur. In: “The Independent”, 19 February 2006. Internet ; Julien Macdonald. The celebrated fashion designer who has worked for Chanel and Givenchy <http://www.bbc.co.uk/wales/arts/sites/fashion/pages/julien_macdonald.shtml>
McDowell, C. Fashion today. Phaidon Press Limited. London, 2000; Reuters Television News; Seeling, Ch. Fashion. The century of the designer 1900 – 1999. Konёmann,2000,Cologne; Skiller , Dolly. Julien McDonald Voted Best Dressed Man. In: FashionGates.com, April 14 2005 и др.
Photos:
1. Julian McDonald
Photo: © Corinne Day / Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005, p.304
2.Model of Julian McDonald, the beginning of ХХІ century
Photo: © Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005, p.305
3. Model of Julian McDonald, spring-summer 2001
Photo: © Chris Moore / Evans, C.Fashion at the edge. Yale University press. New Haven and London, 2003, p. 112
4. Model of Julian McDonald, 1999
Photo: © Anuschka Blommers and Niels Schumm / Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005, p.308
5. Model of Julian McDonald, autumn-winter 2002-2003
Photo: © Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005, p.309
6. Model of Julian McDonald, autumn-winter 2002-2003
Photo: © Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005, p.309
7. Model of Julian McDonald for “Givenchy” (a detail), the beginning of ХХІ century
Photo: © Fashion now. i-D selects the world’s 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. – Köln: Taschen, 2005, p.307
8.- 16. Models of Julian McDonald, autumn-winter 2006-2007
Photo: © Marcio Madeira/VOGUE.COM
17 – 22. Models of Julian McDonald, spring-summer 2007
Photo: © FASquared/VOGUE.COM
23. Azza Fahmy's jewellery for Julien Macdonald - 2008
Photo: © VOGUE.COM
VIDEO:
Julien MacDonald A/W 2008/2009
Julien MacDonald Spring 2007
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