ANNA MOLINARI: “MY CLOTHES BRING MESSAGE OF BEAUTY AND SEDUCTION"

Prof. Lubomir Stoykov

Anna Molinari was born in Carpi, Italy in 1949. Together with her husband Gianpaolo Tarabini based fashion house “Blumarine” in 1977. The same year she holds her first public show in Milan. In 1983 she creates the youth line "Miss Blumarine”. Five years later is founded the company "Blufin" based in Carpi. It combines everything done till present by Anna Molinari and her husband. In 1990 Molinari openes her first independent boutique in Milan. Only after several years Molinari is sold in hundreds of stores worldwide. In 1992 are created two famous brands "Anna Molinari” and “Blugirl”. Designer of “Anna Molinari” becomes the daughter of Anna and Gianpaolo - Rossella Tarabini. In 1997 continues the expansion of the fashion house, which has a 46 percent growth in sales and opened new boutiques in Osaka, Tokyo, Lisbon and Seoul. In Tokyo exhibition is held in the best advertising campaigns of “Blumarine" from 1991 to 2001, which coincided with the opening of a new independent boutique of the brand in the Japanese capital. In 2002 in Beijing is opened a boutique "Blumarine" and in September the same year debutes a new line of “Blugirl” - knitwear collection for teenagers. Between 2003 and 2005 the company “Blufin" opens hotel, participates in prestigious exhibitions, launches men’s line of “Blumarine”, begins a partnership with “Ferrari”, unites and combines shops in New York, launches a line fashion watches" Blumarine"and so on. In 2006 tragically dies the husband of Anna Molinari and his place of the manager of the company occupies his son Gianguido Tarabini. From this point the daughter Rossella Tarabini becomes creative director of all brands of “Blufin”.

The next years are marked by new spectacular successes - a contract with the company for shoes “Vicini”, international perfume licenses for brands of "Blumarine” and “Blugirl”, a joint initiative with he South-Korean giant "LG" and others. Only for 2006 the earnings of “Blufin Group”, which controls the "Blumarine”, “Blugirl” and the brands “Anna Molinari” has revenue of 102.4 million euros. In 2008 Anna Molinari opens independent boutiques in Miami, Dubai, Moscow, Kiev, Odessa, Novosibirsk and others. From June 2008 Rossella Tarabini is reappointed as creative and artistic director of the brands, owned by the "Blufin” and manager of the advertising campaigns of “Blumarine”.

One of the most difficult things to achieve in fashion design is the combination of styles and techniques that seemingly have nothing to do with each other. Should sound and look paradoxically the combination of severity and of femininity, of pragmaticality and of romance, of sports spirit and of formal manner, but just these aesthetical variations gradually began to dominate in modern style. Shining example of that is one of the most famous Italian designers Anna Molinari. Her elegant proposals, which cleared line is completed with the floral compositions, the emblematical jackets, the beautiful embroideries and the tender silhouettes make her distinct, memorable and conceptually showed up. How was born the interest of Anna Molinari to the fashion and to the fashion design? What is the history and origin of today's Empire "Blufin”, respectively of the brands “Blumarine", "Blugirl" and "Anna Molinari”? Why the famous designer consideres inseparably from one another fashion and beauty, design and ethics? What is the mission of her fashion and from where she obtains inspiration? ...

THE MOTHER HERITAGE: THE LOVE TO THE NATURE

It is not accidental the connection of Anna Molinari to fashion and as a whole to the creation of clothing and accessories. Her childhood was saturated with this atmosphere because her parents had knitwear factory, and her mother Odet has worked with some of the best Italian designers during the 60s of the last century. The home environment, the upbringing in a spirit of kindness, justice and last but not least - sense of beauty, harmony and elegance is among the main factors for achieving a perfect culture of thinking and conduct of future designer. The influence of her mother is very big. Today, Anna Molinari tells that with her elegance and love to the beauty and deserving way of life has been very strong example for whose traces are incurable. Just from the everyday style of her mother the designer inherits the enormous love to the nature: "Yes, I am passionate fancier of the nature. As a child I lived in a big house in the hills near Modena. My mother loved a lot to occupy with flowers and she gave me the love to the nature ... "- with inevitable santiment remembers this Anna Molinari. Later this particular culture to the flowers will help her to raise her design to so beautiful patterns, saturated with amazing floral prints and embroideries. Along with her mother among their best teachers in fashion design Anna Molinari put the famous Italian masters of high fashion - Walter Albini and Franco Moschino. From them she learns the precise techniques of tailoring and design art, thanks to them she understands what is necessary to create an original and effect dress.

Curious nepotism and respect to the tradition appear in the philosophy of Molinari. She argues that draws power by thoughts of the appearance of his mother and of the talent of his daughter. She allows to her self to dream of the future of her granddaughter Elizabeth, which would be the third generation in her family, related with the fashion and with the fashion art.

AESTHETICS AND FASHION CONCEPT

In her definition of fashion Anna Molinari inevitably serves with the words "beauty”, “creativity”, “art”. She is at peace with the excesses of the fashion currents that pre-accentuate and reinforce one or another form, one or another color, one or the other features of the toilet, but with such a clear and precise definition of fashion. Unity among the criteria for the message of individuality through clothing, on the one hand and the ability to express the personality that is the cornerstone in her thinking about fashion design: "Fashion is sensitivity, creativity, beauty, attention to the world of women and their needs ... Each wearing garment should be as an expression of personality, and to rediscover themselves through creative work, which each offer the dreaming for beauty in different way”. In speeches and interviews in the media the designer stresses her sense of elegance: quintessence of the good taste and show of emotions, passions and spirituality through clothes and ornaments. For her is leading the Renaissance beauty. She deeply hopes modern people to be able to rediscover the values of the harmony, the divine proportion and the golden section, known by the immortal masterpieces of Leonardo and Michelangelo, Raphael and Botticelli. Requested once how she would determine the beauty, she answers: "Kindness, ability to forgive and generosity to others. Anna firmly associated in one ethics and aesthetics, good and beautiful - just as it is integrated into the ancient Greek aesthetics and philosophy.

"My clothes bring message of beauty of seduction, but without being vulgar. Just because of that they are liked by actresses and business women, and also by hosts. I found that Jennifer Lopez has bought my toilet when I saw her picture in the newspaper, dressed in too familiar to me dress of sequins! Can you imagine?" - explains the specifics and peculiarities of her own style Anna Molinari. She is brave and innovative set maker, but holds to depart from the vulgarity, of the crossing of the boundaries of the good taste.

Several are the character components in the works of the famous Italian designer: the color patterns, the skill embroideries, the sequins, the crystals, the strong use of fur from mink and - of course - the special role of the knitting, which give such warmth and femininity, and together they are practical and functional. The favorite works of Molinari are the embroidered dresses, the knittings with roses and the big cardigans (the woolen knitted jackets), which can be combined with luxury sheer and along with it - heavy dresses. The clarifying of the view of the fashion designer inevitably passes through three key words - art, dreaming and beauty. According to her: "Fashion is art and it should stay a dream which becomes a beautiful clothes, away from any scenario. There is one small warning about the risks of the excessive commercialization of the design, of the definitive performances, presentations and marketing strategies.

Not only Anna Molinari, but also many other artists consider fashion in unity with beauty, luxury and way of living. Molinari is very clear that luxury is not just a sign of wealth and impressive wealth. According to her the real luxury issues the need of everyone to be unique, in some manner to seek uniqueness through an object or a garment. An example is the blue diamond luxury cardigan, embroidered with diamonds and decorated at the sleeves with real pearls from her autumn-winter collection 2001-2002. This incredibly expensive and beautiful masterpiece was created in partnership between “Blumarine” and “Nimey La Perla”.

The roots of the Molinari’s fashion are related to the beautiful and colorful Italian tradition. When she is speaking of the style and even of the Italian fashion, she seeks the dimensions of the beauty and others proved values as the Italian furniture and the cars, the wine and the food. The final success of fashion design today is placed in an iron depending from the advertising and PR-campaigns. It is enough to gaze at the names of the photographers, who worked with Anna Molinari to understand the accuracy and quality of her public communications. Among them distinguish Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Albert Watson and the other gods of the photo objective. Faces of the campaigns and of the photo sessions on billboards, videos, magazines and other media are one of the most beautiful women and top models in the world as Carla Bruni, Care Otis, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Monica Bellucci, Helena Christensen and others.

THE ADVANTAGE OF THE FAMILY BUSINESS

The family of Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini actually is model of solidarity, complementarity, tolerance and efficiency in common action. Anna is not just the muse of the fashion house, but the main generator of aesthetic ideas, inspiration, fashion concepts. The biggest stronghold, but in her life - the man who supports her mostly is her husband Gianpaolo Tarabini, which is the top manager of the company "Blufin" until 2006, when unfortunately dies in tragic accident during a safari in Zimbabwe. His place is occupied by his son Gianguido Tarabini, then 37 years old. He is a graduate of a technical institute and trade and he has gained experience in management and marketing of cars, and before the death of his father he was responsible for the licensing policy of "Blufin”. He is administrative manager of Hotel Touring in Carpi, which is owned by his mother Anna Molinari. His passion is sports cars, football and tennis.

In the creative part the brands "Anna Molinari”, “Blumarine” and “Blugirl" today are created and developed mainly by the daughter of Anna and Gianpaolo - Rossella Tarabini. She loves the luxurious and colorful patterns and she creates in significant extent under the influence of her fashion idols - Vivian Westwood, Martin Margiela and Rey Kawakubo (especially the last). Her mother - Anna Molinari is the sun, but she - Rossella - is the moon! While the mother is passionate and extrovert, Rossella is more contemplative and enclosed by nature. As testifies Anna Molinari for her daughter: "She hides jealously her works of art until the last minute. When she prepares new collections she closes in his office with his staff and no one but them knows nothing about her work. Even me.” Molinari her self is very happy that her daughter works and develops by her own, moreover, that both are very different.

WHAT INSPIRES ANNA MOLINARI?

The inspiration in fashion creativity is life-giving juice to the original idea, beautiful motion, which born beauty, a powerful emotional energy that feeds the imagination and stimulates the fashion process. When and how comes the inspiration to Anna Molinari? What encourages her more to the creative: the flowers and the gardens or the urban landscape? In principle, as she claims, all can inspire her - art itself - be it movie, theater, musical or image, the colors of nature or her favorite garden. As Italian to the core Anna receives inspiration from melodic songs, as from random people who she meets in the street. For example, for her summer collection 2002, she interprets the oriental spirit, which she has caught in a fantastic movie. For her autumn-winter collection 2007-2008, she is inspired by the retro fashion and the Scottish style, demonstrating frivolous and liberal attitude in the line "Blugirl”. Mixing of colors and cuts, smart use of the stones "Swarovski" and playful accessories as pompons, ribbons, beads and glasses - all this issues spirit, humor and culture, which call for more vitality, for more passion and seduction.

One of the dreams that came true for the designer is her peasant house in Mantua. Just there she isolates her self and she relaxes, she loades emotionally and purely humanly. Anna Molinari is perfect connoisseur of the flora and can for hours to tell about her favorite flowers, about the delicacies and particularities of their rearing. She personally takes care of maintaining the flowers in her yard in Mantua. She doesn’t hide her passion to this game, but she inevitably associates it with the fashion: "Flowers are my big weakness. Most often just they are my source of inspiration. I love them, I admire their beauty and copy them on the sweaters or "carry over" them on the clothes through the stamps. The process takes a long time. Sometimes the flower on the sweater takes me 20 hours (to include all embroidery, etc.). Only our company, in which all so hold to the quality can offer products of this type. The designer loves flowers rampant, but among all them she has a favorite and this is the Rose.

In her garden Anna Molinari has many different types of roses, but she particularly likes wild roses that are very bright, almost white and because of that raise delight and longing. Not accidentally her favorite song is "Life in the rose world” of the legendary French singer Edith Piaf. The creative and the style of Molinari is another demonstration of the fruitful relationship between nature and art, beautiful flora and fine fashion design.

* * *

Anna Molinari enriches not only the Italian fashion, but also the world design with the continuity, providing to the great tradition of good couture creators in Italy. In addition she submits her own concept of elegance, chic and beauty, promoting at new level the perception of femininity and romance. Her cult attitude to the nature and flowers reinforces the natural splendor and the variegation of her design. The designer has a large stake in the development and interpretation of knitting, the embroidery and the floral motives in the design of clothing. Thanks to artists such as Anna Molinari the fashion is privileged as full art and irreplaceable manifestation of the human imagination, of the ability of people to dream.

Notes:
In this article are used the following sources:
Anna Molinari: "My fashion excites", magazine "Paraleli" issue 38, 20 - 26 September 2001; Porotyko, Catherine. Розовые розы. Q: Sobaka # 54 Iyuly'05 http://www.sobaka.ru/index.php?path=magazine/article/more/364; http://www.blufin.it/; Theory roskoshi Росселлы Tarabini. In: "HARPER'S BAZAAR" (Russia), March 2007 http://www.bazaar.ru/; Fashion now. iD selects the world's 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. - Köln: Taschen, 2005; Vignali, Alessia. Luxury According to Anna. In: Luxos (Italy) Fall / Winter 2008, pp.60 - 66; Wong, Lyndsey. Blugirl by Anna Molinari Fall 2007: Freedom of Colors & Styles. In: FashionWindows.com, Inc. and other publications in the Bulgarian and in the foreign press.

Photos:

1. Anna Molinari
Photo: © Stefano Guindani / Fashion now. iD selects the world's 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. - Köln: Taschen, 2005, R. 342;
2. Collection "Blumarine" by Anna Molinari
Photo: © Fashion now. iD selects the world's 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. - Köln: Taschen, 2005, R. 343;
3. Rossella Tarabini, daughter of Anna Molinari and Gianpaolo Tarabini, is now chief designer of the lines "Blumarine" and "Anna Molinari"
Photo: © Fashion now. iD selects the world's 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. - Köln: Taschen, 2005, R. 458;
4. Work of art of Rossella Tarabini for "Anna Molinari"
Photo: © Fashion now. iD selects the world's 150 most important designers. Edited by Terry Jones & Avril Mair. - Köln: Taschen, 2005, R. 459;
5. - 7. Collection "Blumarine” - 2005
Photo: © "Vogue" (USA), February 2005.
8. Collection "Anna Molinari”, spring-summer 2007
Photo: © Photo Giovanni Pucci
10. - 11. Collection "Anna Molinari”, autumn-winter 2007-2008
Photo: © www.style.com
12. Collection "Blumarine” - 2008 (detail)
Photo: © "Vogue" (Paris), March 2008.
13. Collection "Anna Molinari” - 2008
Photo: © "Vogue" (Paris), March 2008.
14. - 15. Anna Molinari in her garden - 2008
Photo: © "Luxos" (Italy)
16. - 18. Collection "Blumarine" autumn-winter 2008-2009
Photo: © "Luxos" (Italy)

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