THE YOUNG DESIGNER DILYANA MATEEVA WITH A NEW PREMIER COLLECTION

Silviya Todorova

Black bowler hat inspired by Slash - the solo guitarist of Guns N 'Roses Premier Collection Fashion Melody of the young designer Dilyana Mateeva is inspired by feminine elegance rock and particularly lyrical heroines of rock songs from the late 80s and early 90s of XX century. The autumn-winter collection 2018/2019 combines practicality and elegance with rebellion and adrenaline.

Clear silhouettes and the feminine lines of clothing are combined with specific elements in patterns and interesting color combinations. Emphasis is on author images on outsiders and designer hats. Typical of the collection are hand-made paintings and pop art drawings that correspond to the artist's artistic talent and experience. The images of female faces and the pen as the symbol of creativity, particularly music writing, are leading. The original reference of Dilyana Mateeva to the feathers with which rock guitarists is played is an original one.

"When preparing my graduate collection at the National Academy of Arts , my course supervisor, Assoc. Prof. Mariela Gemisheva, directed me to the author's interference in fabrics. I love painting for years, and there is nothing better than combining two favorite things. One of my favorite styles is pop art, and the techniques I use most are dry brush and watercolor, " says Dilyana Mateeva.

Part of the inspiration of the designer collection for Fashion Melody are typical for the last two decades of the last century high-waisted pants, puffed sleeves and symbolic of that period - feminine silhouette, interwoven with brash charms. Dilyana Mateeva does not fail to include the characteristic display of this culture, but also the masking of the flesh, the rebellious spirit of the burning young love. Even in business outfits are imported touch disagreement, emerging from the boundaries of classical vision through embroidery, paintings and hand-made lace, without leading to excessive use of decorative elements.

The silhouette of the coat and coat in the collection has an underlined waist. Some of the skirts and dresses are multilayered, with slits or draping. The trousers in turn have a high waistline and a straight straight line, with some accent in the cut being the shortened front that elegantly emphasizes the ankle. The collection also features a non-standard interpretation of pantyhose, classic jacket, sleeveless jacket and hand-painted T-shirts in pop art style. The silhouettes emphasize femininity and include: straight, bold, A-silhouette, balloon and cloak. In the coat, the designer combines two silhouettes into one - combined cloak and straight silhouette, as well as A-silhouette cloak.

Dilyana Mateeva relies on fabrics such as silk, velvet, eco leather, wool, gabardine, cashmere - fabrics, giving femininity, class, but emitting slightly disobedience and freedom. The delicate transparency of crystalline silk, which emphasizes the beauty of the female body, makes a strong impression. The coats are made of cashmere and wool, embossed alpaca with wool (Hungaro fabric), gabardine and cold-pressed wool, and the coat of linen and silk. The colors are blue, red, pale pink, white, black, golden beige, body and camel color, as well as specific shades of green and purple with woven brown threads.

The paintings made with watercolor technique are in the typical for pop art colors - blue, red, yellow and green. The feather images give elegance to the dresses, while in one of them they are also presented as a detail on the scarf collar, which effectively emphasizes the V-shaped back.

Feminine faces are key to the crepe silk scarf design and the three t-shirts in the collection made of Cotton Tunic "Punto Milano" in ecru color. The paintings depict the feminine emotions raging as tsunamis, spilling feelings, love, passion and restless thoughts.

Motifs with female faces are also present as hand-made embroidery with 3D elements. They are accents in the back of the jacket. An interesting solution in the design of one of the coats is the soldier's collar, highlighted by stylish green pants. Details that stand out in the collection are handcrafted buttons, dressed in the respective fabric of the garment, as well as the buckles made using the "lace freaks" technique.

The designer Dilyana Mateeva pays special attention to the hats as an accessory. The collection includes a black bumper and hat with a wide brim in white and blue with accent - a discreet red band at the base. Another wide-brimmed hat depicts a red-dial clock and red feathers. The black bomb is inspired by the solo guitarist of Guns N 'Roses - Slash. In its typical style, the bomber is high with sewn elements at the base. All hats are made of rabbit felt. Dilyana Mateeva graduated in 2016 at the National Art Academy, specializing in Fashion and Fine Arts at the Sofia University "St. Kliment Ohridski "in Bachelor degree in 2013. She presented her designer works at the invitation of Prof. Lubomir Stoykov during the events of the Academy of Fashion - BG Fashion Icon 2016 and Golden Fashion Party 2016 as well as in the framework of Sofia Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2016-2017.It admires the elegant, clean and memorable style of Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent as well as the contemporary designer Roksanda Ilinčić. She worked as an assistant to the world famous photographer of Vogue) - Omi Chowdhury.

Together with him, she shot a photo session of the designer Iri Andrikopoulou for Vogue (Italy) and a photo session of the Golden Needle winner - Svetoslav Kolchagov, for the magazine "Deux magazine", where the young designer has published several articles.

Photos:
1. – 21. Fashion Melody Collection, autumn-winter 2018/2019 with designer Dilyana Mateeva.
Photo: © Hilife / Ot igla do konetz

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