FASHION FORECAST FOR 2019

* Various silhouettes, high-tech design, eco and author made fabrics
** Color splendor and colorful geyser, new extravagance and provocative outfits

Prof. D. Sc. Lubomir Stoykov

The key word is "diversity" as if it could most accurately mark the fashion forecasts for 2019. The abundance of styles and variants in clothing is a guarantee for the best possible choice for the individual user. High-tech design, including new high-tech fabrics, and eco-materials will be one of the most key trends in 2019. Ethno style will also preserve its territory, and it cannot be ruled out to become one of the important dominant styles in fashion design next year. The components of the ladies' wardrobe will enter the men's clothing, and vice versa, though more moderate. A new meaning will be acquired by the unisex style. The author's fabrics and art will be appreciated even more.

Taste does not only depend on the finances.
It is time to reject the pessimistic voices that Bulgarian design lags behind in fashion news and the information boom in clothing and textiles in the most developed countries. There is no good reason for Bulgaria to be falling behind with information from the world fashion trends in the era of network technology, Facebook and Instagram, unique fashion blogs and vlogs, YouTube, Twitter, smart applications and smart devices, online sales and many other amazing platforms that distribute, sell, store and process information on fashion design and fashion items. It is true that our standard of living is lower than other countries in the European Union and that of more modest means is more difficult to be fashionable, the situation however is not so simple and things are not right.

Money undoubtedly matters, but it depends not only on economic conditions and on financial resources. Rapid fashion offers not bad variants for fashionable dressing and up-to-date lifestyle at affordable prices. The problem is somewhere else. Perhaps in the fact that a large part of the modern Bulgarians have "chalga" interests and are unable to differentiate correctly the business clothing, the protocol and the official clothing from the clothing for everyday life, for entertainment and for sports. Excessive compulsiveness, ugly eclecticity, aesthetic helplessness, and blasphemous vulgarity inevitably lead to kitsch and visual simplification. I hope that these examples will decrease in 2019. Whether it will happen is a separate issue.

Drastic change of direction for fashion? Forget it!
No drastic change of the fashion direction should be expected, but rather a deepening of the trend towards functional and practical clothing. Casual style will be even more skillfully adapted to the formal dressing style. Business clothing will undergo further changes associated with its liberation and individualization.

Smart fabrics will get even more into fashionable reality. The provocative volumes, silhouettes, patterns and details will grow. Extravagance will expand its territory.

Certainly, however, influences from the previous decades have to be expected. Although it is hard to say unequivocally and clearly what period and exactly how it will affect our design, each age leaves and will leave a smaller or greater footprint on the style of year dressing through style interpretations "Retro" and "Vintage".

Especially strong and will be the reminiscences and the influence of the 20s and 30s, as well as the 50s, especially the 60s of the twentieth century. There will be – at least in my mind - undoubtedly impact of the second half of the 90s on fashion in 2019, I do not exclude it to be in the spirit of the so-called. "bad boys" and "bad girls" by analogy with the then works of Alexander McQueen and Jean - Paul Gaultier, and the relevant youth subculture. A new stage will also be marked by cyber punk and generally the style "futuristic chic", also the impact of virtual subcultures.

It would be unrealistic to predict a single fashion accent for a single fashion dominance, but rather to talk about multiple "fashion hits". Unusual, different, even strange clothing has much greater chances to fall into this category than traditional patterns of elegant appearance. A serious future role will be the provocative and extravagant styles. It will be interesting to understand and - possibly - get used to the new visual ways to promote sexuality. In the past, these were the "mini" and "maxi" amplitudes, and tomorrow, well only God knows!

It is better to be more suspicious and skeptical about loud coloristic forecasts for next year. The reason is that the dictatorial role of fashion designers has long been diluted and weakened simply because the word "fashion" is increasingly associated with the word "dictatorship". Therefore, we can focus more on a few dominant colors in clothing, not just one. I think 2019 will be the year of the color splendor of colorful and vital hues of colors that will enable people to live in harmony with themselves and to enjoy the mental, social and natural comfort.

Last year the ultraviolet was designated the main color, and for next year the forecast points to the color coral.

If we take a look at Pantone Institute's color projections for 2019, we will find that they gravitate towards coral, orange, green, red, blue, brown, mango, purple, golden, etc. in their different nuances. The "living coral" color looks to be the most fashionable. Coral reefs, which are endangered by a number of factors, including global warming and greenhouse gases, have been used for its inspiration. Humanity, warmth and vitality are the leading values that motivated the choice of Pantone for next year.

The best artist is nature, and so its colors will always be inspiring for fashion and its colorful accents. To this, of course, we have to add the dynamic and increasingly complicating social system, as well as the inevitable influence of sport, popular music, cinema and other arts.

Will the aesthetic legacy of Susan Sontag come true?
One of the most influential epicenters of style in 2019 will be the charity ball "Met Gala", which takes place every year on the first Monday of May to collect funds for the clothing department at the Metropolitan Museum in New York. The new theme has already been announced by the chief curator and director of the institute of costumes Andrew Bolton “Camp: Notes on fashion”.

It is inspired by Susan Sontag's famous Notes On “Camp” 1964. I believe that this event will bring together the necessary resources but also that it will give a strong impetus to the dynamics of fashion design that are really unthinkable without such camp features as powerful sensitivity, experimentation, aesthetics, artificiality, decoration, exaggeration, frivolity, extraordinariness, etc. My curiosity about the exhibition is reinforced by the fact that among the hosts, organizers and participants are Lady Gaga, Serena Williams, Creative Director of Gucci - Alessandro Michele, popular British pop singer Harry Styles, the Iron Lady in the World Fashion - Anna Wintour and others.

The presumed Bulgarian event accents in fashion in 2019 traditionally include the proven and time-proven events such as the Golden Needle and BG Fashion Icon (the annual awards by the Academy of Fashion, respectively for achievements in fashion design and for the most stylish , and successful Bulgarians), the biggest fashion show in Bulgaria "Sofia Fashion Week", the largest wedding exposure in our country Balkanica Wedding Expo, individual reviews of influential Bulgarian designers, such as Evgeniya Zhivkova, Sofia Borisova, fashion performances and installations by Mariela Gemisheva etc; the fashion houses "Agressia", "Desizo Monni", "Fede Fashion Studio”, "Kredo”, "Knapp", "Paloma Fashion", "Axel Hardy", "Blink", "Banderol" and others.

The expectations are big for original and impressive fashion shows by proven designers such as: Jana Jekova, Nevena, Viara Georgieva, Hristo Chuchev, Svetoslav Kolchagov, Ivan Donev, Nikolay Bozhilov, Teodora Spassova, Antonia Yordanova and - of course - the most talented young generation in the face of Elena Zlateva, Megi Petkova, Radoslava Lazarova, Gloria Dimitrova, Dilyana Mateeva, Aleksandra Petrova, Maria Delchev, Veliana Loboshka and others.

For me personally important accents of the Bulgarian fashion scene are also the graduate reviews of the students of fashion and fashion design from the National Academy of Art and New Bulgarian University, which in conceptual terms are an example of a fresh, innovative and unusual approach to form and style. Let’s hope that a world class fashion event will be held in Bulgaria in 2019. Throughout the years in our country impressive fashion shows have been held to show off the collections of Pierre Cardin, Slava Zaitsev, Paco Rabanne, Gianfranco Ferré, Luciano Benetton, Philipp Plein and others.

The year 2019 will mark important anniversaries of emblematic events in the fashion world such as the first backless dress by Paul Poiret, the emergence of Marlene Dietrich with the famous dress by Christian Dior 'Pink Venus', the first prêt-à-porter collection by Pierre Cardin, the creation of the fashion house "Comme des Garçons" by Rei Kawakubo and many more.

Illustrations and sources:
1. Kim Jones for Dior Homme and Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: Vogue-Paris. Available at https://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/story/mens-fashion-22-top-trends-for-spring-summer-2019/4065#neo-tailoring-1 2. Dior Homme, Hermès and Dunhill, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: Vogue-Paris. Available at https://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/story/mens-fashion-22-top-trends-for-spring-summer-2019/4065#edgy-cuts-4
3. Jacquemus, Givenchy and Fendi, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: Vogue-Paris. Available at https://en.vogue.fr/vogue-hommes/fashion/story/mens-fashion-22-top-trends-for-spring-summer-2019/4065#sac-de-cou-10
4. Marc Jacobs, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: Cosmopolitan. Available at https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/g23136203/spring-fashion-trends-2019/?slide=8
5. Escada, spring-summer 2019
Photo: Cosmopolitan. Available at https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/g23136203/spring-fashion-trends-2019/?slide=10
6. Oscar de la Renta, spring-summer 2019
Photo: Cosmopolitan. Available at https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/g23136203/spring-fashion-trends-2019/?slide=18
7. Tom Ford, spring-summer 2019
Photo: Cosmopolitan. Available at https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/g23136203/spring-fashion-trends-2019/?slide=46
8. Rejina Pyo (left), Xiao Li (center), Yuhan Wang / Fashion East (right), Ryan Lo and Simone Rocha, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: Glamour. Available at https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/gallery/spring-summer-2019-fashion-trends
9. Givenchy (left), Preen by Thornton Bregazzi (center), Balmain (right), Pringle and Roland Mouret, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: Glamour. Available at https://www.glamourmagazine.co.uk/gallery/spring-summer-2019-fashion-trends
10. Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Chloé, Hermès, Prada, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: W Magazine. Available at https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/spring-2019-fashion-trends
11. Valentino, Givenchy, Dior, Fendi, Max Mara, spring-summer 2019.
Photo: W Magazine. Available at https://www.wmagazine.com/gallery/spring-2019-fashion-trends
12. The current colors for spring-summer season 2019 according to the estimates of the respected Pantone Institute (detail).
Photo: Pantone. Available at https://www.pantone.com/color-intelligence/fashion-color-trend-report/fashion-color-trend-report-new-york-spring-summer-2019
13. The current colors for the spring-summer season 2019 according to the estimates of the respected Pantone Institute (detail).
Photo: Pantone. Available at https://www.pantone.com/color-intelligence/fashion-color-trend-report/fashion-color-trend-report-new-york-spring-summer-2019
14. Official designers dress by Radoslava Lazarova for fashion house "Blink", spring-summer 2019, in body color, mocha and gold. The silk "Mermaid" dress is made of an original lace with baroque motifs, spectacular neckline, bare back, transparent elements and a Chinese silk liner. The decoration is made of hand-made crystals in the color of the citrine stone. Model - actress Sanya Borisova.
Photo: Ivomir Peshev
15. Official designers by dress Radoslava Lazarova for fashion house "Blink", spring-summer 2019: bustier with feathers and skirt with pearls and crystals, and asymmetrical skirt with constructive transparent elements. The bustier has a hand-crafted relief of crystals, feathers and beads. Materials: French lace, matte satin, vinyl net. Colors: black, silver, graphite, ecru.
Model - actress Sanya Borisova.
Photo: Ivomir Peshev
16. Official designers dress by Radoslava Lazarova for fashion house "Blink", spring-summer 2019. The dress is with crystals and translucent transparent fabrics in body color, graphite and powder. The silhouette is a Mermaid type, hand-decorated with graphite crystals in different shapes and sizes, with emphasis on the female body curves. Silk tulle is also used.
Model - Miss World Bulgaria Veronika Stefanova.
Photo: Ivomir Peshev
17. Official design by designer Hristo Chuchev, winner of the Golden Needle 2018 by the Academy of Fashion. The dress is made of French lace and is decorated with ostrich feathers at the bottom. Top model Diana Ivancheva poses for the photo.
Photo: Kostadin Krastev - Koko
18. and 19. The famous British actress and top model Elizabeth Hurley with a dress of Bulgarian designer Nevena Nikolova ("Nevena London") on the birthday of David Furnish, a long-time partner of Elton John - 2018.
Photo: Elizabeth Hurley (@elizabethhurley1)
20. Ivan Donev and his work.
Photo: Ivan Donev's personal archive

Read: 1957 times                                                  © Fashion Lifestyle Magazine, issue 99, January 2019

 MORE PUBLICATIONS:
   ISSUE 98: Paul Smith Autumn/Winter 2018-2019 collection
   ISSUE 98: THE MAGIC OF THE FILM CLASSICAL ELEGANCE AND FEMININE POWER
   ISSUE 97: Dolce and Gabbana Fall/Winter 2018-2019 collection
   ISSUE 96: ELEGANCE AND FUTURISM IN SUMMER PROPOSALS
   ISSUE 78: The Bulgarian folklore motif in men's suits